Hey there, fellow cabin owners in Northern Michigan! It’s time to talk about something we often forget – our septic tank systems. It’s a bit of a stinky topic, but it’s something we all need to address at least once a year. After all, no one wants to deal with a smelly wet crisis bubbling up from below, right?
In this article, we’re going to take a deep dive into the world of septic systems. We’ll discuss how they work, what you should and shouldn’t put in them, and share some handy tips on maintaining and repairing your septic tank and drain field.
Did you know that a surprising number of U.S. households rely on a septic system? According to the 2007 U.S. Census, over 26 million homes used an on-site disposal system like a septic tank and absorption field. In states like Alaska, more than a third of the population uses an on-site method. In North Carolina, it’s half the residents! Overall, over 95% of homes with on-site water disposal systems use a septic tank.
In rural areas, homeowners have to be more self-sufficient. There aren’t as many services available as in urban areas, so things like groundwater wells, backup generators, and septic systems are the norm. Waste disposal, including trash and wastewater, is a major concern for rural homes, cottages, and cabins.
Even if you’re an urban dweller with a second home, you might own a septic system. The 2010 U.S. census reported that Michigan had over 235,000 homes listed as secondary. So, your seasonal cottage or cabin might also be using a septic system.
So, how does a septic system work? It has two main components: a septic tank and a drainage field. The septic tank is made of an impermeable airtight material like concrete, plastic, or fiberglass and is buried underground, in line with the wastewater outlet of the home.
Septic tanks are like waste processors. They should have baffles, which are internal slabs or tees at the inlet and outlet, to ensure a positive flow pattern. Most septic tanks have a single compartment, but some states in the U.S. require two tanks or enclosures to prevent solids from flowing out to the absorption field.
The typical home septic tank can hold 1,000 gallons of wastewater. The size can vary depending on the size of the home and state and local requirements. The tank’s main job is to separate the solids from the wastewater and promote the breakdown of solid waste by bacteria and microbes. Sludge forms and sinks to the bottom of the tank, while a foamy scum rises to the surface – both of these are signs that your septic tank is working. The sludge needs to be pumped out regularly by licensed septic haulers.
The wastewater then moves to the drain field via a connecting pipe. This drain field, also known as the soil drain field, absorption field, disposal field, or leach field, is a closed-loop system. It’s a series of underground pipes with small holes that allow the wastewater to slowly drain into the soil.
The wastewater that comes from the septic tank to the drain field is cloudy, gray, and full of microbes and pollutants. The drain field is usually placed in a dry, unsaturated area. The wastewater flows through the pipes and out through the small perforations into layers of gravel and sand. As it moves through the soil, many of the bacteria that can cause illness are filtered out. Other germs and viruses are also filtered and held by the sand and dirt until they die. The soil can retain some nutrients like phosphorus and nitrogen, which is why you might see grass and other vegetation near a septic drain field looking green and thriving.
The soil treats the wastewater through a natural oxygenated and filtering digestion process and removes the remaining waste. Eventually, the water, now free of impurities, returns to the groundwater.
Some places require a separate system for the intake of washing machine wastewater. This smaller tank lets detergents and bleaches dissipate before they flow into the main septic tank. These harsh chemicals can kill the good microbes needed in the septic tank to break down waste solids.
If you’ve bought or inherited an older home, cottage, or cabin in northern Michigan, you might have a unique challenge: managing an older septic tank and field. Simple questions like where the tank access is can be a daunting task. We found a great article for those with older systems: [Learning to be SepticSmart, but what was with Ralph’s compass?](https://www.michigan.gov/mienvironment/0,9349,7-385-90161-539721–,00.html)
So, what can you put into a septic system? And what should you avoid?
**OK** – Septic systems can handle all wastewater from your home, cabin, or cottage. This includes drainage from baths, sinks, showers, toilets, dishwashers, and washing machines. If these wastewaters were left untreated, they would pollute area lakes, streams, and even groundwater.
**NOT OK** – Keep roof drains, basement sump pumps, and other surface water or rainwater away from the septic and drainage field. Too much surface water in the absorption field will prevent the soil from absorbing the wastewater, resulting in untreated run-off contaminated water on the surface.
**NOT OK** – Avoid using caustic drain openers for a clogged drain. Try using boiling water or a drain snake instead.
**NOT OK** – Avoid highly caustic or acidic bathroom and kitchen cleaners. Look for cleansers that are septic safe or use a mild detergent and baking soda.
**MAYBE OK** – Check with your local zoning or state agency about using a garbage disposal in your septic system. Also, check with your septic service provider about installing a garbage disposal and whether your septic tank can handle it.
**NOT OK** – Never dump chemicals or solvents into drains served by a septic system. Don’t drain grease, plastics, latex paint, pesticides, solvents, oven cleaners, degreasers, and solvents, or any other hazardous fluids into your septic system.
When you’re buying toilet paper, look for “septic friendly” on the package. This means it will dissolve quickly and won’t clog your septic system. The best toilet paper to use should be septic safe, biodegradable, and not require too many sheets to use. If you live in an area where septic systems are used, your local retail store will likely have suitable toilet paper brands at various price points.
With proper use and periodic maintenance, your septic system should last about 30 years. However, sometimes a system can become overloaded due to house guests, parties, or other household activity. In these cases, there are treatments available to help break down septic tank solids. These consist of good bacteria or enzymes that multiply to absorb and digest grease, paper, and other solid waste.
There are products containing active bacteria cultures. These are living microorganisms that live in a septic tank and are called anaerobic bacteria. These bacterial organisms live without air and are selected to revive the enzymes required to reduce solid waste. They work on the sludge and scum layers of your septic tank and even out into the absorption field.
Some products contain enzymes for use in septic tank systems. Enzymes aid the natural bacteria in septic tanks by helping to break down organic solids. This results in smaller waste molecules, making it easier for the bacteria to digest the smaller solids. These are typically called septic tank boosters and come in the form of a flushable packet or liquid.
But be careful with septic tank additives. Most are a combination of bacteria and enzymes. Watch out for additives containing formaldehyde, zinc sulfate, and quaternary ammonium. These products promise to control odor, but they can act as a biocide, killing the good bacteria in your system. Additives containing extensive amounts of hydrogen peroxide might not harm the system’s bacteria but could damage the drain field’s soil. Use additives sparingly, if at all.
In summary, a septic system is a safe, effective, and economical way to handle wastewater from your home, cottage, or cabin. With routine periodic maintenance and careful waste disposal, your septic system can last for decades. In those rare instances where heavy use is expected, then simple products can be added to the system to assist in septic effectiveness.
For more information, check out these related articles: [Great Lakes Pollution – Saginaw Bay Muck is Poop](https://thumbwind.com/2017/05/16/michigan-saginaw-bay-muck-poop/), [Scott Hocking – The Emergency Ark](https://thumbwind.com/2016/06/10/emergency-ark-by-scott-hocking/), [Hints for a Fun Day Trip to Cheeseburger in Caseville Festival](https://thumbwind.com/2017/08/15/caseville-day-trip-cheeseburger-festival/), [Muskegon Solar Array Project a Possibility](https://thumbwind.com/2012/02/08/muskegon-solar-array/), and [Canada Confirms Potential Nuclear Waste Site Near Lake Huron and Michigan](https://thumbwind.com/2020/01/11/canada-confirms-site-of-potential-nuclear-waste-site-near-michigan/).
In conclusion, owning a septic system doesn’t have to be a headache. With a little knowledge and regular maintenance, your system can serve you well for many years. So, next time you’re chatting with your fellow cabin owners, you can impress them with your septic system know-how!
#SepticSystem #CabinLife
See the original post at [So Now You Own A Septic Tank System – 10 Best Service Hints](https://thumbwind.com/2022/04/21/septic-tank/).
